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Literally "wild strawberry spot," it's best translated as a quiet, almost mystically beautiful haven, somewhere hidden away from the rest of the world — a place that feels like it exists only for you. I knew the term from studying Swedish in college, but the meaning never sank in until I traveled to South Koster Island last year for a taste of how the Swedes summer. It's a place of waves that lap at rocky outcrops and hilly pine forests that yield to meadows of vividly named flora, like delicate orchids the Swedes call Virgin Mary's keys and a moss known as goblin gold that glows a cartoonish neon green.
The area around the preserve is one of the most biodiverse spots in Sweden, home to 12, different species. All the usual suspects — sheep, foxes, hares — are accounted for, and there's plenty for bird-watchers to cross off their lists keep an ear out for the eider ducks' hilariously sarcastic calls.
Kayaking in the fjord is one of the best ways to appreciate the wildlife, especially when the freckled, blobby harbor seals are sunning themselves on the shore. You can visit either North or South Koster, both of which are essentially car-free.
South Koster, the larger of the two, is only about three square miles and eminently hikeable. There are bikes for rent at two of the island's three ferry landings, some days just a few cruisers leaning beneath an honesty box.
I hopped on one to get the lay of the land with Stefan von Bothmer, a marine biologist who has lived on South Koster for nearly 25 years and is one of the island's most enthusiastic boosters. We kicked off our tour at what Stefan told me were the ruins of a late-Viking settlement, then pedaled down to the fishermen's harbor, which is lined with cute little A-frames in earthy colors.
Washed-up seaweed fertilizes the organic gardens; composting toilets nourish the surrounding forest; the farm is irrigated by a pond dug to catch rainwater and attract frogs, which in turn eat the insects, and — you get the idea. But, as Stefan often says, the restaurant's ethos encompasses more than just ecological principles.
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He wants his customers to feel comfortable, to be treated well, to experience the pleasures of the Kosters' fresh tomatoes. There are no foraged micro-garnishes — just excellent, humble food, cobbled together from whatever's in season. This tiny tidal island can only be reached during certain times of the day when the tide is out.
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If you are lucky enough to reach it you will find wild asparagus, flowers and fruits growing there. It is located next to Kynance Cove which is a hugely popular place to visit with parts of the TV adaptation Poldark being filmed there amongst others.
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Asparagus Island also has a blowhole which makes some very interesting sounds at mid-tide! This small tidal island located in Mount bay in Cornwall has a castle, a chapel and an underground railway which transports goods from the harbour up to the castle. It is one of 43 tidal islands which you can walk to from mainland Britain and has eight houses where members of the Castle staff live. Never miss a deal again.
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Hilbre island, Wirral
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